Exploring the Ancient Lore of the Wolves at Le Domaine La Louvière
Winding our way on the main route from Limoux to Carcassonne, we arrive at the rolling hills of the small and secluded commune Malviès. Barely spotting the signs overgrown by the foliage we twist and turn through the small roads of the commune and just when it appears we’re heading into rows of vineyard leading to nowhere, we spot a classic French lavender Renault “4L” truck on the grassy side of the road with a sign “Le Domaine La Louvière”. We’ve made it! But wait — was that a wolf dressed in women’s clothing?
We soon find out that “un loup” is the French word for “wolf” and that this very site is an ancient “louviere”, a place where the wolves gathered, on this hill top, perhaps near their lair. An ideal place for viewing the surrounding valleys, it opens to a sweeping scape of the Pyrenees mountains, snow capped most of the year. One can easily imagine the wolves howling at the moon atop this beautiful knoll.
Quaint and tranquil, the property has a stunning vantage point from just about every angle. Next to the tasting room is a spacious courtyard with a babbling fountain, a perfect place to bring a picnic and enjoy a glass of your favorite wine after a tasting.
We are in the Malepère region where wines are grown locally and organically by debonair winemaker and General Manager, Jem Harris. An Australian oenologist, Jem has called France his home for the past 20 years, and has been the winemaker at La Louviere for 10 years. As he patiently explained that “Oenology” is the science of and study of wine and winemaking whereas “Viticulture” is the science of growing, cultivating and harvesting grapes. Essentially, he oversees the entire process from grape vines to bottling at the Domaine.
In the tasting room we find the elegantly French Corinne who is always happy to host a tasting. A native to this region, she has forgotten more about wine than we will ever know. She is in charge of all the sales in France and is often found at various festivals and events pouring La Louvière wines.
What makes this wine region special?
As the crow flies, the Mediterranean Sea is about an hour by car, heading east, and 2 hours to Spain, heading south. The Malepère region is known as a mix-climate region. Where grapes that rarely thrive in the heat of the Mediterranean coast, these prosper well in the Malepère’s cool winds of the Pyrenees mountains from the south and the Atlantic Ocean from the west.
Domaine La Louvière offers single variety white wines made from Chardonnay, Viognier, Sauvignon Blanc and Chenin Blanc, and from the read varietals — Malbec, Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Cinsault, Malbec, Grenache and Pinot Noir.
The labels complete the experience of Le Domaine La Louvière with their risqué and whimsical names along with wolves dressed in Moulin-Rougey, turn-of-the-century burlesque attire. Reading the suggestive labels from “Le Coquin” to “La Seductress” are part of the unique experience that makes this a must-see winery.
The winery offers a tour through the vineyards every Tuesday and wine tastings can be booked by appointment. The cellar/boutique is open Monday to Friday, between 8am – 12pm and 2-6pm.
The Domaine is located just a half-an-hour’s drive from Carcassonne and 18 minutes from Limoux (10 minutes from the main D118 road linking the two towns).
At Château Terre Blanche we offer La Louvière wines along with our chef’s pairings for special dinners. We invite you to visit the winery’s website to read in detail about the wines, the domaine and the special events offered throughout the year, especially in the summer months.
